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【YKK拉鏈行業(yè)新聞】

今年5月，意大利奢侈品牌華倫天奴(Valentino)失去了其獨(dú)家香水業(yè)務(wù)，令西班牙美容巨頭普伊格(Puig)遭受又一次重大打擊:意大利奢侈品集團(tuán)普拉達(dá)(Prada)也停止了與普伊格(Puig)續(xù)簽的15年香水特許經(jīng)營(yíng)協(xié)議，該協(xié)議將于明年年底到期。

據(jù)一位知情人士透露，普拉達(dá)選擇不續(xù)約的原因之一是其香水的銷量低于預(yù)期。常州ykk拉鏈該品牌的香水業(yè)務(wù)目前每年的銷售額約為1億歐元，遠(yuǎn)低于2003年P(guān)uig獲得普拉達(dá)(Prada)獨(dú)家香水許可證時(shí)承諾的2億歐元。
2017年，普格的總銷售額為19.4億歐元，同比增長(zhǎng)8.6%。在去年的財(cái)務(wù)報(bào)告中，Puig說(shuō)Prada的香水銷售狀況良好，這對(duì)香水部門的銷售增長(zhǎng)做出了很大的貢獻(xiàn)。但奢侈品牌的獨(dú)家經(jīng)銷權(quán)不斷喪失，讓許多人懷疑，他能否在未來(lái)繼續(xù)他目前的言論。華倫天奴獨(dú)家香水授權(quán)每年可為Puig帶來(lái)7000萬(wàn)歐元的收入。
Puig的第三代繼承者M(jìn)arcPuig說(shuō)，隨著電子商務(wù)的興起，香水市場(chǎng)發(fā)生了變化，這對(duì)這個(gè)集團(tuán)來(lái)說(shuō)是一個(gè)巨大的挑戰(zhàn)。有消息稱，嘉興ykk拉鏈MarcPuig可能是家族中最后一個(gè)經(jīng)營(yíng)這家公司的成員，并在2020年左右離開(kāi)Puig這家擁有104年歷史的西班牙美容集團(tuán)。
今年5月，法國(guó)化妝品巨頭歐萊雅(LOreal l’oreal group)從普格(Puig)手中接過(guò)華倫天奴(Valentino)的獨(dú)家香水授權(quán)，成為美國(guó)化妝品集團(tuán)CotiPrada香水業(yè)務(wù)下一個(gè)授權(quán)合作伙伴的熱門人選。
如今，Puig擁有的時(shí)尚品牌包括ninarcicarolinaherrerajeanpaulgaultier和PacoRabann，臺(tái)州ykk拉鏈但成衣和高級(jí)定制服裝的年銷售額還不到Puig總銷售額的10%。
為了擴(kuò)大品牌組合的多樣性，Puig也采取了一些措施。上個(gè)月，Puig收購(gòu)了比利時(shí)設(shè)計(jì)師DrivanNoten的多數(shù)股權(quán)，此舉被視為Puig進(jìn)一步進(jìn)軍時(shí)尚產(chǎn)業(yè)的野心的一個(gè)標(biāo)志。2013年，DrivanNoten與ParfumFrederMall——雅詩(shī)蘭黛公司的子公司合作推出了同名香水，并取得了巨大的勝利。
奢侈品牌通常許可他們的香水和化妝品業(yè)務(wù)的專業(yè)生產(chǎn)廠家,但是授權(quán)方的意見(jiàn)和創(chuàng)意團(tuán)隊(duì)的授權(quán)方,溫州ykk拉鏈水的設(shè)計(jì)和營(yíng)銷并不總是相同的,這是相當(dāng)普遍的兩黨分歧在品牌形象建設(shè)。因此，一些奢侈品牌會(huì)選擇經(jīng)營(yíng)自己的化妝品和香水業(yè)務(wù)，比如迪奧和香奈兒，但獨(dú)立經(jīng)營(yíng)也會(huì)帶來(lái)相應(yīng)的風(fēng)險(xiǎn)。2012年，伯貝里將其香水和美容業(yè)務(wù)變成了一項(xiàng)直接業(yè)務(wù)，支付巨額賠償金，并從長(zhǎng)期合作伙伴Interparfum手中回購(gòu)了品牌許可。但據(jù)該公司去年的年報(bào)顯示，四年后，該公司將其香水和化妝品專賣權(quán)以1.6億美元的價(jià)格賣給了美國(guó)化妝品巨頭CotiBurberri。ykk拉鏈在這個(gè)過(guò)程中，它摧毀了價(jià)值超過(guò)1000萬(wàn)英鎊的過(guò)期香水和美容產(chǎn)品。

Spanish beauty giant Puig has suffered another major blow after losing its exclusive perfume business to Italian luxury brand Valentino in May: Prada, the Italian luxury group, has also stopped renewing a 15-year perfume franchise agreement with Puig that expires at the end of next year.

One reason Prada chose not to renew the deal, according to a person familiar with the matter, was that sales of its perfume fell short of expectations. The brand's perfume business now sells about 100 million euros a year, a far cry from the 200 million euros it promised when Puig won Prada's exclusive perfume license in 2003.
In 2017, Puig's total sales volume was 1.94 billion euros, up 8.6% year on year. In last year's financial report, Puig said that Prada's perfume sales are in good condition, which has made a great contribution to the sales growth of the perfume department. But the steady loss of exclusive rights to luxury brands has led many to question whether he can continue his current rhetoric in the future. Valentino exclusive perfume authorization can bring 70 million euros of revenue to Puig every year.
MarcPuig, Puig's third-generation successor, says that with the rise of e-commerce, the perfume market has changed, posing a great challenge for the group. MarcPuig is likely to be the last member of the family to run the company and leave Puig, the Spanish beauty group's 104-year-old family business, around 2020, sources said.
In may, French cosmetics giant LOreal l 'oreal group, which took over Valentino's exclusive perfume authorization from Puig, and a popular candidate for the next authorized partner in the us cosmetics group CotiPrada perfume business, which has had exclusive authorization from MiuMiu since 2013.
Today, Puig owns fashion brands including NinaRicciCarolinaHerreraJeanPaulGaultier and PacoRabann but ready-to-wear and haute couture clothing than annual sales accounted for less than 10% of total sales perfume remains Puig sales absolute main force.
In order to expand the diversity of brand portfolio, Puig has also taken a number of measures. Last month, Puig bought a majority stake in Belgian designer DrivanNoten, in a move that was seen as a sign of Puig's ambitions to move further into the fashion industry. In 2013, DrivanNoten teamed up with ParfumFrederMall, a subsidiary of EsteeLauder EsteeLauder EsteeLauder group, to launch its namesake perfume, which won a huge victory.
Luxury brands usually license their perfume and cosmetics business to professional manufacturers, but the opinions of the authorized party and the creative team of the authorized party, the design and marketing of perfume are not always the same, and it is quite common for the two parties to have disagreements on brand image building. Therefore, some luxury brands will choose to operate their own cosmetics and perfume businesses, such as Dior and Chanel, but independent operation will also bring corresponding risks. In 2012, Burberri turned its perfume and beauty business into a direct business, paying huge damages and buying back the brand license from its longtime partner, Interparfum. But four years later, it sold its perfume and make-up exclusive rights to us cosmetics giant CotiBurberri for us $160 million, according to its annual report last year. In the process, it destroyed more than 10 million pounds worth of outdated perfume and beauty products.